Why ramen rules New York (and the world)

By
Francis Chin
– March 26, 2019Posted in: Featured, Food
On Feb. 8, 2011, the Japan Society in New York decided to host a series of presentations on a growing culinary phenomenon - now a mainstream staple - in the city: ramen. (photo by Francis Chin / Meniscus Magazine)
On Feb. 8, 2011, the Japan Society in New York decided to host a series of presentations on a growing culinary phenomenon – now a mainstream staple – in the city: ramen. (photo by Francis Chin / Meniscus Magazine)

 

Masahiro Nakano, the director of public relations at the Shin-Yokohama Raumen Museum, impressed before he even took the stage. According to his bio, he had "researched ramen culture in [all] 47 prefectures of Japan and has tasted more than 2,000 different kinds of ramen." (photo by Francis Chin / Meniscus Magazine)
Masahiro Nakano, the director of public relations at the Shin-Yokohama Raumen Museum, impressed before he even took the stage. According to his bio, he had “researched ramen culture in [all] 47 prefectures of Japan and has tasted more than 2,000 different kinds of ramen.” (photo by Francis Chin / Meniscus Magazine)
The roots of ramen in Japan originated in China, when immigration to port cities in Japan began 750 years prior. (photo by Francis Chin / Meniscus Magazine)
The roots of ramen in Japan originated in China, when immigration to port cities in Japan began 750 years prior. (photo by Francis Chin / Meniscus Magazine)

 

According to Nakano, it's best to think of ramen versus other Japanese soup noodle dishes such as soba or udon by comparing the rules of how they should be prepared. Soba and udon follow strict, traditional methods similar to sumo wrestling whereas ramen takes an "anything goes" approach...similar to the WWE. (photo by Francis Chin / Meniscus Magazine)
According to Nakano, it’s best to think of ramen versus other Japanese soup noodle dishes such as soba or udon by comparing the rules of how they should be prepared. Soba and udon follow strict, traditional methods similar to sumo wrestling whereas ramen takes an “anything goes” approach…similar to the WWE. (photo by Francis Chin / Meniscus Magazine)

 

A look at how regional types of ramen have profilerated throughout Japan. Nakano said that one reason for ramen's novelty - at least, circa 2011 when this lecture was held - in the United States was because other Japanese foods such as sushi and tempura were introduced earlier to the country. "Within Japan, ramen has always been the most popular food," he said. (photo by Francis Chin / Meniscus Magazine)
A look at how regional types of ramen have profilerated throughout Japan. Nakano said that one reason for ramen’s novelty – at least, circa 2011 when this lecture was held – in the United States was because other Japanese foods such as sushi and tempura were introduced earlier to the country. “Within Japan, ramen has always been the most popular food,” he said. (photo by Francis Chin / Meniscus Magazine)

 

Top ramen joints in New York mentioned during the evening were Momofuku and Ippudo. As of 2019, both restaurants have since considerably expanded their empires worldwide. Ippudo boasts more than 127 restaurants across the world (plus 80 within Japan alone), and David Chang has ventured well beyond his original Momofuku Noodle Bar in New York with restaurants across the United States, as well as Canada and Australia. Of the Momofuku signature ramen, speaker J. Kenji López-Alt (then the managing editor of Serious Eats) said that Momofuku uses a French technique for its ramen, emphasizing big flavor, no fat and a shorter cooking time. (photo by Francis Chin / Meniscus Magazine)
Top ramen joints in New York mentioned during the evening were Momofuku and Ippudo. As of 2019, both restaurants have since considerably expanded their empires worldwide. Ippudo boasts more than 127 restaurants across the world (plus 80 within Japan alone), and David Chang has ventured well beyond his original Momofuku Noodle Bar in New York with restaurants across the United States, as well as Canada and Australia. Of the Momofuku signature ramen, speaker J. Kenji López-Alt (then the managing editor of Serious Eats) said that Momofuku uses a French technique for its ramen, emphasizing big flavor, no fat and a shorter cooking time. (photo by Francis Chin / Meniscus Magazine)

 

Unsurprisingly, ramen samples were served to guests at the end of the evening. Despite all the regional versions of ramen, the dish can be divided into four types: miso, shio, tonkotsu and shoyu. Tonkotsu ramen emerged in 1947 whereas miso came later in the 1960's. Some ramen restaurants now allow diners to customize their own bowls, and it should be noted that the thicker and wavier the noodle, the more soup it will absorb. So richer soups should be paired with thinner noodles, whereas lighter broths accompany wavier noodles. (photo by Francis Chin / Meniscus Magazine)
Unsurprisingly, ramen samples were served to guests at the end of the evening. Despite all the regional versions of ramen, the dish can be divided into four types: miso, shio, tonkotsu and shoyu. Tonkotsu ramen emerged in 1947 whereas miso came later in the 1960’s. Some ramen restaurants now allow diners to customize their own bowls, and it should be noted that the thicker and wavier the noodle, the more soup it will absorb. So richer soups should be paired with thinner noodles, whereas lighter broths accompany wavier noodles. (photo by Francis Chin / Meniscus Magazine)

 

Photos: Ramen Rules New York – Japan Society, Feb. 8, 2011
Moderator: Jordana Rothman
Speakers: Masahiro Nakano and J. Kenji López-Alt
all photos by Francis Chin / Meniscus Magazine

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More than eight years have passed since our last “Ramen Run” column, originally intended to be an autobiographical series about the Japanese noodle.  A big reason for the gap?  Clearly, ramen has taken over the world and is no longer a novelty.  Tell us what some of your favorite ramen restaurants are on our Facebook, Twitter or Instagram feeds.

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