Gayeon Lee Spring 2016 – Seoul Fashion Week

Two years ago, Lady Gaga wore several designs by then-Central Saint Martins M.A. student Gayeon Lee to promote her ARTPOP album. At the time, one could see why Lee’s tendency to bend the rules of basic geometry would appeal to the singer. Considering Gaga’s recent preference toward more classic styles these days, it can be forgiven if her decision to don Lee’s creations was based on the Korean designer’s latest collection. Unveiled in London and Paris prior to Seoul Fashion Week, Lee’s Spring 2016 collection departed from her usual aesthetic. But the gamble on more commercial fare, unfortunately, was disappointing.

Looking to the 1950’s and Italian photographer Federico Clavarino’s 2014 book Italia O Italia for inspiration, thick materials restrained the ballooning structure of long dresses, wide trousers, culottes and the occasional coat. Most were pleasing to the eye. However, despite the use of sepia and some lighter tones, the collection felt a bit heavy for the season, particularly with the all-black pieces. Oversize buttons broke up the monotony of solid color, but the clanging of square and circular charms in metal and mother of pearl merely distracted as their wearers walked. Going forward, perhaps Lee can find some middle ground between her previous designs and this collection in order to appeal to both the Gagas of yesterday and today.

Button sleeve oversized jacket; overlapped button trouser. (photo by Yuan-Kwan Chan / Meniscus Magazine)

Collar tied coat. (photo by Yuan-Kwan Chan / Meniscus Magazine)

Photos: Gayeon Lee Spring 2016 – Seoul Fashion Week
all photos by Yuan-Kwan Chan / Meniscus Magazine

Video: Gayeon Lee Spring 2016 – Seoul Fashion Week
video by Yuan-Kwan Chan / Meniscus Magazine