Fashion Shenzhen Spring 2016: Kavon, Haiping Xie, Deng Hao

The Fashion Shenzhen collective at New York Fashion Week showcases three Chinese designers selected by the Shenzhen Garment Industry Association. The organization serves to connect the local industry and the Chinese government, with the intention of elevating talented names to international status.

Kavon

Structured pieces presented on the Kavon Spring 2016 runway exuded peace and harmony with simple lines, modern cuts and floral patterns. The looks were presented in three sections: the beginning of spring (a scarlet bubble hemmed dress with what looks like hand-painted flowers), summer solstice (an elegant long A-line dress with large blue flowers was shown), and the representation of balance (ending with a stark white blouse and wide, half skirt). A couple of noteworthy pieces included a long, a-line dress featuring deep pockets and layered blue patterns overlapping one another, and a pair of wide-length, scarlet floral pants.

Haiping Xie

The dramatic “Flying” Spring 2016 collection by Xie Haiping included one interesting gown after another, inspired by the Silk Road city of Dunhuang. Black and white gowns with calligraphy-like patterns, and shredded black and white silk, floated down the runway and eventually gave way to more color (red, yellow, blue, gold, and green) in the form of unusual, complex tiled patterns on simply cut ball gowns.

Deng Hao

Founded in 1993, the couture brand Deng Hao presented designs that were dated for a modern American audience. Hand knit with embroidery, bows and frills, the designs felt out-of-place on the NYFW: The Shows runway. Gowns dominated the collection in various lengths in green, pink, blue, and red. A short pink dress with a ruffle detail paired with feathered and jeweled heels echoed the Lolita-like looks of Harajuku. Another dress in rose with a mandarin collar could easily be worn by a young woman in Tokyo. The collection may succeed in Asia, but would not appeal to the standard American aesthetic.