In one of her boldest collections to date, Son Jung Wan’s typically ladylike pieces received a rude awakening from the gilded streets where one would usually expect them to stroll. For Fall 2014, Son slashed at hemlines, blurred together a moody mix of colors and added sumptuous furs full of attitude to dresses, jackets and pants. Her few menswear pieces received an equally aggressive treatment, reflecting her growing strength and confidence in designing men’s clothing.
Metallics, particularly shimmering gold, played a prominent role throughout the collection. A romper with a gold leather bodice and white fur shorts oozed pure sexy glamour, emphasized by an unzipped slit curving up one leg. In another piece, jagged bronze leather panels highlighted the collar of a cropped brown wool jacket, while all subtlety was thrown out the door when one particularly game male model walked down the runway wearing a pair of silver leather pants. The most fun piece was a fluid below-the-knee gown that looked as if it had been glitter-bombed with multi-colored sequins before thick tufts of black alpaca fur were attached as sleeves.
Luxurious excess was also represented by the abundance of fur either trimming a collar or exploding as a voluminous coat. A burnished metallic gold shearling panelled coat with wooly lamb sleeves was a beautiful example of Son’s experiment in mixing textures. Another, a somber wool dress in rich blended shades of blue and purple, had deep blue elbow-length fur sleeves that resembled a comfortable stole wrapped around the model’s shoulders.
Photos: Son Jung Wan Fall 2014 – New York Fashion Week
all photos by Kwai Chan / Meniscus Magazine