Ruffian Fall 2014: The Middle Ages meet the modern day

The chanting of monks in the background, a silk digital print of a unicorn reminiscent of those found on medieval tapestries, ruffled collars…

Despite a liberal, Dolce & Gabbana-esque dive into the opulence of Ye Olde Middle Ages that sometimes felt puzzling, Ruffian designers Brian Wolk and Claude Morais can be forgiven for their excesses because of the imaginative interpretation of those times shown throughout their Fall 2014 collection. Titled “Rapture,” there were indeed some styles that could elicit contented sighs, but also some that required a bit of a moment to digest and appreciate.

Sandwiched between pops of primary colors and the standout unicorn digital print were black blouses, blazers and pants cut with the monastery in mind but in fabrics fit for a king. A conservatively tailored blazer in moire jacquard stood out for its armor-like detailing emphasizing the shoulders. When styled with a matching knee-length skirt and buttoned-up blouse made of silk crepe de chine, the effect would have been prim if not for the model’s bright cobalt blue tights.

Wolk and Morais’ strength lies in creating clothing that is overtly feminine but not saccharinely so. A flared duchess satin dress with a collage of panels featuring the digital unicorn print was ladylike in flow and flounce, but the bold chili pepper red tights worn with it provided a good anchor. The red tights also gave the closing outfit – a wedgwood blue silk satin faced organza blouse with puffed sleeves and pleated turtleneck paired with a matching blue double duchess satin skirt piped with red along its hem – some attitude as well.

But as flattering as these pieces were, there were equally unflattering styles. In one literal interpretation of monastic robes, Ruffian’s double crepe version with sleeves thinly paneled with a floral digital print was rather clown-like with the addition of a large white ruffled collar.

Photos: Ruffian Fall 2014 – New York Fashion Week
all photos by Kwai Chan / Meniscus Magazine