Ricardo Seco Spring 2014: NYC meets Shanghai, with mixed results

"When I was in Shanghai, I felt the energy was very similar to New York," designer Ricardo Seco told Meniscus Magazine about his decision to mix the styles of both cities in his Spring 2014 collection. (photo by Ekaterina Golovinskaya / Meniscus Magazine) — “When I was in Shanghai, I felt the energy was very similar to New York,” designer Ricardo Seco told Meniscus Magazine about his decision to mix the styles of both cities in his Spring 2014 collection. (photo by Ekaterina Golovinskaya / Meniscus Magazine)

Titled “Power,” Ricardo Seco’s Spring/Summer 2014 menswear collection drew inspiration from what the designer perceived to be the major link between New York and Shanghai. “When I was in Shanghai, I felt the energy was very similar to New York. And I said, wow, Shanghai [also] has this energy and this man that has the capacity to do everything,” he told Meniscus Magazine backstage before the show.

What resulted from this interpretation of East meets West was a collection that had some cool streetwear but which also sometimes came a little too close to Canal Street chic. In describing his approach to this season, Seco said, “I took some fabrics of China and I mixed with the silhouette of New York style. I mixed with black and gray – and how you see all this extremity in New York. [Also] white. And I mixed [those] with some colors of China, but more representative of power [like] blue and gold.”

One model sauntered down the runway in a black leather jacket worn over a grey zip-up, examples of New York through and through. On the other hand, the accompanying loose white t-shirt with color-blocked black hem paired with slim black ankle pants – and black New Balance sneakers – had a traditional Chinese menswear silhouette. Other models wore bomber jackets made of embroidered royal blue satin and loose black tie-waist pants that Bruce Lee would have been comfortable in. However, a silky black short-sleeved shirt with frog buttons down the front was too literal.

In a hint of what may come, Seco placed one female model with the boys, wearing her own version of the blue satin bomber jacket with a black v-neck and black leather shorts. When asked if more womenswear would be in the pipeline, the designer coyly said, “For now.”

Accessories were also a mixed bag, but a positive standout was the wooden glasses with round frames created by Custom Projects. They had an Old Shanghai feel, similar to the black pairs worn by sinister godfathers in kung fu movies, but were elevated to the present day with laser red lenses.

Photos: Ricardo Seco Spring 2014 – New York Fashion Week
all photos by Ekaterina Golovinskaya / Meniscus Magazine