With menswear continuing to gain major traction at the New York Fashion Week semi-annual collections, so has speculation as to whether a separate bonafide ready-to-wear men’s event is in order. New York is the only one of the four major Fashion Week cities – the others being Milan, Paris and London – to combine all its offerings into a packed eight days, making for an increasingly complicated schedule of several hundred shows in various locations in and outside of Lincoln Center.
Until that separation happens, menswear continues to find any space and time slot in the Big Apple it can get, with some of the strongest Fall 2013 collections showing off-site. Such was the case with Siki Im (Cafe Rouge), Y-3 (80 Essex St.) and Patrik Ervell, who showed at Milk Studios’ increasingly impressive and influential MADE Fashion Week. Ervell’s Fall/Winter 2013 collection was titled “Silvan,” a reference to a spirit who inhabits the woods. With this in mind, according to the designer’s stated inspiration, Ervell sought to explore “the traditional idea of forests as anti-city…and, more recently, places protected by civilization, places where people feel to go alive, places endangered and dangerous.”
As a result, Ervell for the most part favored looser cuts as if to prepare the wearer should he need to bundle up for a sojourn of unspecified length in the wilderness. Heavy coats and blazers in wool, jacquard and flannel constructed in moody shades of indigo and navy signified a desire to shield oneself from unknown elements, be it during a quest for more secluded pastures during a hike or a mad escape from the claws of a hostile boardroom. The same held true for the casual and formal pants, as well as the heavier-than-expected rain ponchos with asymmetrical cuts.
Credits:
Hair: Holli Smith for Oribe Hair Care
Make-up: Maki Ryoke with Mua and the M.A.C. Pro Team
Shoes: Patrik Ervell for ALDO
Photos: Patrik Ervell Fall 2013 – New York Fashion Week
all photos by Kwai Chan / Meniscus Magazine
Video: Patrik Ervell Fall 2013 – New York Fashion Week
video by Kwai Chan / Meniscus Magazine
Full run of show
1 standard blazer in grey cotton jacquard
Formal buttondown in pale blue cotton broadcloth jacquard
Formal pants in grey cotton jacquard
Cap in black ballistic wool—nylon with molded carbon fiber brim
2 raglan sleeve overcoat in indigo wooljacquard
Standard pants in blue static fleck cotton
Daypack in grey cotton jacquard
Envelope hat in navy woolteddy fur
8 overlock jacket in navy melange wool felt
Button collar shirt in white cotton broadcloth
Athletic pants in heavyweight nylon satin
4 bomber jacket in forest print silk
Rugby in white cotton
Formal pants in charcoal wool flannel suiting
5 cable knit sweater in deep turquoise baby alpaca
Button collar shirt in emerald cotton—silk jacquard
Athletic pants in emerald cotton-silk jacquard
Cap in black ballistic wool-nylon with molded carbon fiber brim
6 jean jacket in grey cotton jacquard w/ black lambskin
Standard button down in charcoal cotton oxford
Formal pants in grey cotton jacquard
5,7 tuxedo blazer in navy woven jersey
‘ formal buttondown in navy woven jersey
Athletic pants in navy woven jersey
Envelope hat in navy wool teddy fur
8 rain slicker in charcoal waterproof bonded wool nylon suiting
Standard buttondown in creme cotton oxford
Formal pants in charcoal wool suiting
Tie in grey cotton-silk jacquard
9 blazer coat in navy wool coating
Standard buttondown in grey thin stripe cotton broadcloth
Formal pants in navy wool coating
Tie in grey cotton—silk jacquard
Cap in black ballistic wool-nylon with molded carbon fiber brim
10 unstructured blazer in deep emerald wool flannelsuiting
Work shirt in forest print silk
Formal pants in deep emerald wool flannel suiting
Snap belt in black nylon webbing
11 flight jacket in navy wool coating
Standard buttondown in khaki cotton pinpoint oxford
Athletic pants in khaki nylon cotton 4
Cap in black ballistic wool-nylon with molded carbon fiber brim
12 sleep shirt in forest print silk
Formal pants in emerald cotton jacquard
Daypack in forest print cotton
13 tuxedo blazer in emerald cotton jacquard
Formal buttondown in white cotton broadcloth jacquard
Formal pants in emerald cotton jacquard
14 puffer jacket in indigo aerial nylon
Standard button down in pale blue cotton broadcloth
Pleated pants in black static fleck wool silk
Snap belt in black nylon webbing
Envelope hat in navy wool teddy fur
15 robe coat in indigo wool jacquard
Formal buttondown in navy silk dupioni
Formal pants in deep emerald wool flannel suiting
Snap belt in nylon webbing
16 blazer coat in indigo wool jacquard
Button collar shirt in grey cotton-silk jacquard
Athletic pants in grey cotton—silk jacquard
17 jean jacket in blue denim with navy woolteddy fur collar
Combo button collar shirt in mini—check navy cotton broadcloth
Athletic pants in navy woven jersey
18 overlock jacket in navy wool teddy fur
Unstructured blazer in charcoal wool flannel suiting
Button collar shirt in charcoal miniacheck cotton broadcloth
Formal pants in charcoal wool flannel suiting
19 topcoat in navy woolteddy fur
Button collar shirt in white cotton broadcloth
Athletic pants in navy cotton-nylon
20 quilted sweatshirt in optical white insulated cotton fleece
Button collar shirt in emerald cotton—silk jacquard
Athletic pants in indigo aerial nylon
Envelope hat in navy woolteddy fur
21 raglan sleeve overcoat in navy wool coating
Quilted shirt jacket in forest print cotton
Athletic pants in forest print cotton
Daypack in black leather with hand braided horsehair straps
Cap in black ballistic wool—nylon with molded carbon fiber brim
22 duffle coat in charcoal waterproof bonded wool nylon suiting
Button collar shirt in grey pinpoint cotton oxford
Baggy pants in charcoal wool flannel suiting
Cap in black ballistic wool-nylon with molded carbon fiber brim
23 macintosh in indigo aerial nylon
Button collar shirt in blue pinpoint cotton oxford
Baggy pants in charcoal wool flannel suiting
Snap belt in black nylon webbing
24 duffle coat in forest print cotton
Athletic pants in navy woven jersey
25 rain slicker in deep emerald nylon jacquard
Standard buttondown in grey thin stripe cotton broadcloth
Baggy pants in deep emerald wool flannel suiting
26 rain poncho in deep emerald nylon jacquard
Athletic pants in heavyweight nylon satin
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