Carmen Marc Valvo Fall 2013: Troubled waters

It was a tormented soul who stalked the New York runway at Carmen Marc Valvo Fall/Winter 2013. A woman deep and disquieted (by…an errant lover? The definition of pi? The power of the gun lobby? How to navigate a New York City blizzard in mesh heels?). A tough broad who, however cracked her upper lip, manages to smooth and stiffen it just enough to face the world.

Inspired by Edgar Allan Poe, this is a moonlit mangrove of a collection, all moody tones and shadows, troubled waters rippling with hints of lurking beasts. A black sequined evening coat with blocks of giant square patent-leather paillettes is a study in disturbed elegance. A grape laser-cut leather dress with a shimmering underlay and scalloped hem strains at serenity. Monochromatic brocade slithers menacingly along slimline sheaths. Ruched jackets and skirts feel just shy of a scream. Leather strips on the bodice of a flowing sheer gown call to mind a corseted princess. Plunging alligator decollete on a column gown looks set to bite.

Color and cut are tightly reined: the palette stays somber (black, grape, merlot), and volume is kept to the occasional flare of shoulder, sleeve or hem. Other than a couple of voluptuous fur coats and gilets, the pieces skim the body with the flawless construction for which the label is known.

Grace and gentility, slightly unhinged: Poe would be proud.

Photo Gallery: Carmen Marc Valvo Fall 2013
all photos by Kwai Chan / Meniscus Magazine

A look from the Carmen Marc Valvo Fall 2013 show at New York Fashion Week. (photo by Kwai Chan / Meniscus Magazine)

Carmen Marc Valvo takes a bow at the conclusion of his Fall/Winter 2013 runway show in New York. (photo by Kwai Chan / Meniscus Magazine)

Video: Carmen Marc Valvo Fall 2013
video by Kwai Chan / Meniscus Magazine