Eric Kim did his homework. The founder and head of Los Angeles-based label Monarchy is best known for producing over-embroidered tees, shirts and jeans that are frequently feature the company name garishly monogrammed across chests, backs and derrieres. Thankfully, that rock star nonsense didn’t make it here to the East Coast runways; in its stead was a men’s and women’s collection of slick coats, jackets, suits and dresses.
An English equestrian theme dominated the collection. Female models sported riding breeches, wide collared hunting blouses, capes and tartan patterns, while the men’s collection included dark washed denim and three-piece suits. These styles mingled with edgy leather and wool bombers, trenches and motorcycle jackets. With accessories supplied by various other labels—most notably almost-ridiculous hunting hats and pull-on riding boots by Timberland—the feeling of the collection was haughty, commanding and in-your-face.
Not all the outfits remained in theme, as black jersey dresses were sometimes paired with draped hooded long-sleeved shirts. The diversion also included the show’s only real misfire: a men’s black see-through asymmetrical cardigan, resembling a gauzy black rag, which appeared to disfigure the model’s body. But a glimmer of past bad habits is easily overlooked amongst a plethora of good new ideas.
Photo Gallery: Monarchy Collection Fall 2009 – New York Fashion Week
all photos by Kwai Chan / Meniscus Magazine